Rabbits

Rabbit Diseases

VACCINE PREVENTABLE INFECTIOUS DISEASES

Myxomatosis

Introduction
Myxomatosis in rabbits is caused by a Poxvirus, similar to the human smallpox, and is usually spread by mosquitoes. It is a very dangerous disease and usually results in death.

Symptoms:

After a one-week incubation period, the most typical symptoms occur on the head. The symptoms include: runny eyes developing into severe conjunctivitis that results in blindness, swollen genitals, swelling in the head, thick pus discharge from the nose, swollen eyes and lumps on the body. The animal will lose their appetite, become emaciated, and, in many cases, will die.

Prevention:

A mosquito net does not provide any protection against the disease as it can occasionally be spread by fleas and other bloodthirsty arthropods, which can sometimes be introduced through the animal's food.

Protection can only be achieved by vaccination!

The disease can only be treated symptomatically and, unfortunately, usually ends in death.

Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease

Introduction:

Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease (RHD) is caused by Calicivirus. The pathogen, found in bodily fluids, spreads quickly and can cause a very dangerous disease, usually associated with mortality.

Symptoms:

Symptoms can be seen within 1-2 days of infection and include fever, lethargy, loss of appetite, followed by sudden bloody nose and breathlessness, after which rabbits usually die.

Prevention:

Fortunately, there are vaccines available to protect against RHD. In the event of an infection, treatment should not be give and, instead, the animal should be humanely euthanized. The disease must be reported to the authorized veterinarian!

Vaccination Protocol for Indoor Rabbits or Rabbits Kept Alone:
After 6 weeks of age, the Myxovac vaccine (against Myxomatosis) should be given followed by yearly booster injections.

Vaccination Protocol for Outdoor or Multi-Rabbit Households:

After 6 weeks of age, Nobivac Myxo-RHD combined vaccine (Myxomatosis and RHD) should be given and repeated annually. The Pestorin mormyx vaccine should also be given at 4 weeks of age and repeated every 6 months.

Rabbit advices

Nutrition?

Small rodents are animals with fast metabolisms, so any loss of appetite or refusal of food should be taken seriously and a veterinarian should be contacted after a single occasion. One half-day of food refusal may indicate illness, and one full day of anorexia can have serious consequences. Therefore, if away from the rabbit for more than one day, feeding needs to be organized beforehand.

The food of small rodents kept indoors is mainly from hay, leafy greens, fruits, vegetables, and seeds:

The hay available in pet stores cannot be overdosed and can be given to your rodent multiple times a day. The high fiber content of the hay plays an important role in keeping digestion in balance. Chewing the hay also wears down the animals' teeth (which are constantly growing), as well provides something to occupy the pet's mind. Small rodents are very sensitive to fungal toxins so moldy hay should never be given.

Leafy greens, fruits, and vegetables should be cleaned (with tap water) and dried before feeding and should not be served cold. We can give: white and yellow turnips, kohlrabi and radish leaf, broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce, cucumber, tomato, apples, watermelon, pumpkin, corn, cherries, peach, kiwi, etc. It is best to never give too much of one fruit or vegetable, and to keep their meals varied.

It is very important that rodents are not overfed seeds and they should be fed no more than one or two teaspoons of commercial seed mixtures daily. If seeds are constantly available to the rodent, it not only will become obese but it could develop fermentative diarrhea. For similar reasons, large quantities of bread cannot be fed to rodents. However, small quantities of dried bread, given once or twice per week, can be beneficial for tooth abrasion. For squirrels or degus: walnuts, peanuts, and dried crackers can be added to their diet once weekly.

Guinea pigs are greedy eaters, and they become full easily, so any food that hasn't been eaten within one hour should be taken away (except for any hays). Do not contaminate the terrarium with food residues and remove all food between meals. Hamsters often stuff their cheek pouches with food. Mice and squirrels often bury their favourite foods, usually in their litter. The physical shape and taste of food does not affect the appetite of rats. Rabbits, and sometimes guinea pigs, produce and eat special soft stools (cecotropes), which is not abnormal.

Water?

Every rodent needs water. Most of the daily water requirement of rodents are met with leafy greens and fruit, but they will still need to drink water. A water bottle with a control ball is ideal for all rodents as they are easy to use and prevent the animal from filling the terrarium with water. Fresh water should be given every few days. Vitamin C should be added to the water of guinea pigs as they are unable to produce the vitamin on their own.

Placement?

The cage or terrarium should be chosen based on the size of the rodent. It should be kept in a quiet, draft-free room with natural light, and should be kept at room temperature away from any heaters or radiators nearby.

Clean, dry, dust-free wood chips, hay, tissue paper, or shredded bark (squirrels) can be used for bedding. It is advisable to put a layer of cat litter underneath for more absorption. Chinchillas and degus will also need bathing sand, which should be replaced monthly at least. Bedding should be changed regularly and, if wet, should be changed immediately. If the bedding and litter are replaced regularly, bathing of the rodent is unnecessary and can even be harmful. Since the bedding doesn't abrade their claws, they should be checked and cut monthly.

Every rodent needs a suitable shelter. Ladders and climbing trees can be added. Squirrels, hamsters, and mice have a greater movement demand and therefore should have a wheel as well.
It is very important that chewing trees are kept in the terrarium or cage. Fruit tree (e.g. cherry, peach, pear, apple) branches are best for this as long as they are washed beforehand. The rodents will strip the bark from these branches as they chew them, wearing down their teeth in the process.

Spaying Female rabbits

There are several reasons to spay female rabbits:

Avoid unwanted offspring…
Rabbits are animals that reproduce very quickly. It only takes a few months for them to reach sexual maturity and females are able to reach estrus multiple times per year; meaning they can have several litters in one year, each litter containing anywhere from 2-12 kits (depending on the breed).

Therapeutic purposes…

In cases of uterine inflammation (metritis), other uterine abnormalities, or abnormal ovarian lesions it is necessary to perform a spay surgery for therapeutic purposes.

In case of spaying, owners should know:

Female rabbits can be spayed as soon as they reach sexual maturity, around 4 months of age, but generally veterinarians wait until around 6 months of age. Abdominal surgery is performed under general anesthesia. For anatomical reasons, rabbits cannot vomit, so fasting is not required before surgery. The abdominal incision is closed in layers and the sutures will need to be removed after one week. Until suture removal, a protective collar should be used to prevent would licking.

Neutering Male Rabbits

There are several reasons to neuter male rabbits:

Aggressive behaviour between other males…

Intact male rabbits who are kept together are aggressive and fight regularly.

In case of neutering, owners should know:
Neutering is done under general anesthesia. For anatomical reasons, rabbits cannot vomit, so fasting is not required before surgery. During the operation, the testicles are removed.

Maintenance Tips for Rodents